I was recently chatting to a voyaging friend about how few people actually get away for a long cruise, let alone extended voyaging.
In any boatyard or marina, you will always see a percentage of boats 'getting ready' to 'go off'. Their enthusiastic owners will tell you all about their plans. Some of the boats are being taken apart before being completely rebuilt as a 'world girdler'. Some are in a semi-comatose state (the boats, that is) of having extensive 'upgrades'. Some are perfectly fit to go off tomorrow, but the owner is still working on jobs that s/he feels essential before the boat can be taken to sea. 90% of these people are more than happy to put down their tools and talk. Some will say how they are 'just' going to change the galley completely because at present no-one could use it at sea (not that they've ever tried); some are fitting more and more 'safety' equipment leaving less and less room for such essentials as food and water (but never mind, they have a water maker); some are installing a larger engine; the more ambitious have completely gutted a boat that was functioning quite adequately several months/years previously in order to turn it into the perfect 'offshore cruiser'.
You will end up feeling like the Wedding Guest with the Ancient Mariner pinning your ears back. They will tell you, in excruciating detail why these improvements are essential; they will give you a detailed itinerary of their proposed voyage; they will proudly show you their fully-fitted deck awning'; their extra-large outboard motor for 'exploring reefs'; their mast steps for conning through the coral heads; their Jordan's Series Drogue, their additional trysail track, maybe even their on-deck reels of rope for Patagonia. (Once they have sailed through the Caribbean or explored the South Seas, they will want to go further afield.) They have read all the right books and spend their evenings watching sailing videos on You Tube. They can quote you chapter and verse on what to do in what weather situation and how much you will be charged to enter different countries and where the pirates are at their worst.
What they will never do is leave.
Why is this? my friend and I pondered. Why do all these people who are dying to go and anchor off a tropical island, loaf in the sunshine and become 'boat bums' never get out of the marina?
We talked about it, questioned how we had managed to break free, looked at the way we lived. And the truth is that becoming a boat bum for the average person, is anything but easy. Daddy didn't give us an allowance, we didn't win Lotto, no-one left us the family home worth zillions. Instead we had to skimp and scrape, do without and use every bit of determination, self-discipline and resolve that we could dredge up to get there.
The fact is that most voyaging 'boat bums' could have been extremely successful in the Real World had they wanted to. And sadly, those in the boatyards and marinas who want to tell you all about their plans and how they are going to get away soon are never going to do it. If they were going to succeed, I'm afraid they'd be too busy truly getting ready, to do more than pass the time of day with you.
Dreams are cheap: turning them into reality takes everything that you have - and then a bit more.
We do not need big boats and lots of money to go sailing. Anywhere. Sailing books and articles should be about people and their boats, not money, marinas and meals out. We do not need satcoms, a watermaker or a chart plotter. We should be allowed to be responsible for ourselves, not be made to spend money on rescue equipment. We should buy our own adventures and not beg: aka sponsorship. We can have a small, inexpensive boat, but a vast, wealthy life! DOWN WITH CONSUMER CRUISING!
27 February 2019
22 April 2018
Cruising without fuss
Eric Hiscock (probably most people haven't even heard about him these
days) admired his mentor, Roger Pinckney, because he 'cruised without
fuss'. Doing anything without fuss seems antithetical to the
twenty-first century approach to life, where even news of one's
breakfast is photographed and distributed, in one assumes, the hope of
receiving the plaudits of the masses. (Why else would one do it?)
However, my heroes and heroines cruise without fuss. Yes, I know that we refer to all genders as heroes these days, but dammit, my heroines are women and deserve to stand out separately. My particular heroine is very much someone who cruises without fuss. She blogs quietly and is virtually unknown beyond a small circle, but her blogs are inspirational and her way of doing things an example that those who say they can't afford to go sailing, would do well to follow.
I'm talking about Shirley on Speedwell, who has just blogged about transiting the Panama Canal. As ever, the event was quietly understated, but her excitement came through. She mentioned, in her previous blog, how when she came to organise herself to go through the Canal, she was warned about the dangers of venturing into Colon and "thought of the many times I have walked through the town between the supermarket and the bus terminal without any problems." This sums up Shirley so well. She is part of the real world, not on the outside, a tourist looking in. She wanders alone around places that young men would be frightened to visit, not out of any starry-eyed faith in humanity, but rather with a realistic approach to what constitutes danger. She brings this same sanity to sailing, and although her non-sailing friends appear to think that she's intent on committing suicide, sailing across the Pacific in her 25ft Vertue, she is well aware of all the other Vertues that have crossed oceans and been around Cape Horn. She also knows that many, many small boats have crossed the Pacific and she knows herself and her boat well enough to realise that while the prospect may be daunting, she and Speedwell are more than capable of making the voyage.
Knowing one's capacities and having the courage to follow through on that knowledge are two very different things. So many of us are frightened of being frightened. Shirley is a heroine to me, because she can rise above that fear and achieve her dream. And doesn't feel that it's necessary make a fuss about it.
However, my heroes and heroines cruise without fuss. Yes, I know that we refer to all genders as heroes these days, but dammit, my heroines are women and deserve to stand out separately. My particular heroine is very much someone who cruises without fuss. She blogs quietly and is virtually unknown beyond a small circle, but her blogs are inspirational and her way of doing things an example that those who say they can't afford to go sailing, would do well to follow.
I'm talking about Shirley on Speedwell, who has just blogged about transiting the Panama Canal. As ever, the event was quietly understated, but her excitement came through. She mentioned, in her previous blog, how when she came to organise herself to go through the Canal, she was warned about the dangers of venturing into Colon and "thought of the many times I have walked through the town between the supermarket and the bus terminal without any problems." This sums up Shirley so well. She is part of the real world, not on the outside, a tourist looking in. She wanders alone around places that young men would be frightened to visit, not out of any starry-eyed faith in humanity, but rather with a realistic approach to what constitutes danger. She brings this same sanity to sailing, and although her non-sailing friends appear to think that she's intent on committing suicide, sailing across the Pacific in her 25ft Vertue, she is well aware of all the other Vertues that have crossed oceans and been around Cape Horn. She also knows that many, many small boats have crossed the Pacific and she knows herself and her boat well enough to realise that while the prospect may be daunting, she and Speedwell are more than capable of making the voyage.
Knowing one's capacities and having the courage to follow through on that knowledge are two very different things. So many of us are frightened of being frightened. Shirley is a heroine to me, because she can rise above that fear and achieve her dream. And doesn't feel that it's necessary make a fuss about it.
18 March 2018
STIX nonsense
I have been busily defending my wee boat, of late, against those who would have me believe that she's not fit to take offshore. And by offshore, I mean 10 miles from land, heading for an island off the coast. Why is this? Because under the RCD (Recreational Craft Directive) promulgated by the EU, she is Category C - fit only to be used inshore along the coastline.
Now, let us ignore for a moment, that sailing along the coast is probably the most dangerous bit of sailing that one does, why is my boat so disparaged? In a nutshell, it's for the simple and (supposedly) sufficient reason that she is less than 32ft long. Shall I list the boats under 32ft that have made outstanding passages: Wanderer II, Shrimpy, Mingming and Mingming II, Trekka, Novo Espero, Erik the Red, Sopranino, Emmanuel, Felicity Ann, Moonraker, to say nothing of countless Vertues, Contessa 26s, Folkboats and the numerous boats that have taken part in the various Jester challenges?
The so-called STIX factor that dictates this arbitrary ruling, relies largely on LOA and displacement. It does not take into account such things as: whether the boat is inherently unstable upside down, like many of Bolger's designs; it doesn't take into account that the mast may well be hollow and trap water.
Moreover, for some inexplicable reason, while a Contessa 26 is deemed unfit to go offshore and a Contessa 32 just scrapes by, the RCD blithely suggests that catamarans are fit to sail around Cape Horn. Now, I know that catamarans have sailed around Cape Horn, and that some of them are very seaworthy vessels, but quite honestly, the average white plastic monster, lumbering across the tropical oceans of the world, is barely fit to take out of the trade winds. These boats are full of heavy gear, which will not be included in the original design specs, which gave them their Cat A: "All habitable multihull craft shall be so designed as to have sufficient buoyancy to remain afloat in the inverted position". In spite of their lack of ballast, they probably displace more than the air that would be trapped in them if they went upside down: and any single one of them is perfectly capable of turning upside down, should it encounter a breaking wave either longer than it or wider than it, something that is not unusual south of Cape Horn. Moreover, if you look at most of these cats: how long would they stay inverted before they started breaking up? A fat lot of good it is, having an escape hatch when all you have to escape to is a life raft in the Southern Ocean! The RCD should be scrapped, if only for giving a false sense of security to the deluded individuals who think that their mass-produced, floating condo is fit to go south of 40.
A conspiracy theorist might suggest that the RCD has been set up purely to encourage people to buy big boats: better still, as it was only introduced relatively recently, lots of existing boats don't have a 'category' so your wannabe ocean girdler is put off buying it because they can't classify it. No worries, mate, we'll just by a new Category A boat and we'll be fine. Safe to go round Cape Horn, don't you know. I'm not a conspiracy theorist, but I do believe that there is a lot of pressure to consume, and consume means buying new. No doubt those who advised the committee that finalised the RCD were well meaning: on the other hand, how many of them had sailed offshore in small boats?
What a load of cobblers.
Even more cobblers is that this magical STIX category says that the boat must not remain inverted for more than 2 minutes. Why? Because that's as long as a person can hold their breath. Well, I should expect that in the sort of conditions where a boat is likely to capsize, most people would be down below anyway and, one would hope, have rather more than 2 minutes' worth of air in the boat. A good boat, a boat that is unstable upside down (but not necessarily RCD Category A) won't stay upside down for 20 seconds, let alone 2 minutes, but while your Category A boat is upside down, water will come in through the ventilators and probably, through the sliding hatch. Surely these are covered by the Directive? No, it simply says: "Particular attention should be paid where appropriate to: ... ventilation fittings." Not that all ventilators must be waterproof when the boat is upside down, (probably because such ventilators - they are made - are quite expensive and would erode the manufacturer's profit). And the number of sliding hatches that are waterproof under several feet of water, can be counted on the fingers of one hand. And again, the mast will fill with water, being as how it's a modern pointy rig with everything running down inside the mast: and imagine the loads on that when the boat decides to sit up again.
Oh, and by the way, just in case you happen to be outside when all this happens - there is no provision for a strong point for the attachment of safety harnesses in the cockpit!
But small boats aren't fit to take offshore. End of argument.
Now, let us ignore for a moment, that sailing along the coast is probably the most dangerous bit of sailing that one does, why is my boat so disparaged? In a nutshell, it's for the simple and (supposedly) sufficient reason that she is less than 32ft long. Shall I list the boats under 32ft that have made outstanding passages: Wanderer II, Shrimpy, Mingming and Mingming II, Trekka, Novo Espero, Erik the Red, Sopranino, Emmanuel, Felicity Ann, Moonraker, to say nothing of countless Vertues, Contessa 26s, Folkboats and the numerous boats that have taken part in the various Jester challenges?
The so-called STIX factor that dictates this arbitrary ruling, relies largely on LOA and displacement. It does not take into account such things as: whether the boat is inherently unstable upside down, like many of Bolger's designs; it doesn't take into account that the mast may well be hollow and trap water.
Moreover, for some inexplicable reason, while a Contessa 26 is deemed unfit to go offshore and a Contessa 32 just scrapes by, the RCD blithely suggests that catamarans are fit to sail around Cape Horn. Now, I know that catamarans have sailed around Cape Horn, and that some of them are very seaworthy vessels, but quite honestly, the average white plastic monster, lumbering across the tropical oceans of the world, is barely fit to take out of the trade winds. These boats are full of heavy gear, which will not be included in the original design specs, which gave them their Cat A: "All habitable multihull craft shall be so designed as to have sufficient buoyancy to remain afloat in the inverted position". In spite of their lack of ballast, they probably displace more than the air that would be trapped in them if they went upside down: and any single one of them is perfectly capable of turning upside down, should it encounter a breaking wave either longer than it or wider than it, something that is not unusual south of Cape Horn. Moreover, if you look at most of these cats: how long would they stay inverted before they started breaking up? A fat lot of good it is, having an escape hatch when all you have to escape to is a life raft in the Southern Ocean! The RCD should be scrapped, if only for giving a false sense of security to the deluded individuals who think that their mass-produced, floating condo is fit to go south of 40.
A conspiracy theorist might suggest that the RCD has been set up purely to encourage people to buy big boats: better still, as it was only introduced relatively recently, lots of existing boats don't have a 'category' so your wannabe ocean girdler is put off buying it because they can't classify it. No worries, mate, we'll just by a new Category A boat and we'll be fine. Safe to go round Cape Horn, don't you know. I'm not a conspiracy theorist, but I do believe that there is a lot of pressure to consume, and consume means buying new. No doubt those who advised the committee that finalised the RCD were well meaning: on the other hand, how many of them had sailed offshore in small boats?
What a load of cobblers.
Even more cobblers is that this magical STIX category says that the boat must not remain inverted for more than 2 minutes. Why? Because that's as long as a person can hold their breath. Well, I should expect that in the sort of conditions where a boat is likely to capsize, most people would be down below anyway and, one would hope, have rather more than 2 minutes' worth of air in the boat. A good boat, a boat that is unstable upside down (but not necessarily RCD Category A) won't stay upside down for 20 seconds, let alone 2 minutes, but while your Category A boat is upside down, water will come in through the ventilators and probably, through the sliding hatch. Surely these are covered by the Directive? No, it simply says: "Particular attention should be paid where appropriate to: ... ventilation fittings." Not that all ventilators must be waterproof when the boat is upside down, (probably because such ventilators - they are made - are quite expensive and would erode the manufacturer's profit). And the number of sliding hatches that are waterproof under several feet of water, can be counted on the fingers of one hand. And again, the mast will fill with water, being as how it's a modern pointy rig with everything running down inside the mast: and imagine the loads on that when the boat decides to sit up again.
Oh, and by the way, just in case you happen to be outside when all this happens - there is no provision for a strong point for the attachment of safety harnesses in the cockpit!
But small boats aren't fit to take offshore. End of argument.
19 July 2017
Twentieth century sailing books
As a complete, and welcome contrast to the contemporary sailing books I've been reading, I found that Kobo e-books have some classics lurking in their 'store'. There was a time when I owned both of Edward Allcard's books - more than once - but they have been left behind on various boats, I hope still loved and cherished.
However, I found Single-handed Passage was on offer and immediately bought it. What a joy to read after my recent books. Here is a man who is perfectly content to be sailing at 3 knots on his 34 foot yawl; he contemplates and 80-day passage with equanimity; he takes his mainsail down or heaves to at night so that he can sleep in peace; after two days of calm, culminating in a magnificent sunset, he writes "It was a fitting end to a delightful interlude." What a sense of peace emanates from these few words.
Edward Allcard is at sea just because he wants to be. He is not trying to prove anything or to compete with anyone - even himself. He just wishes to take his ship from England to New York by 'the Southern Route'. He looks at a couple of atlases, maybe a routing chart or two and sets off. He has no schedule, no-one he has arranged to meet, no flights to catch, no job or business to 'get back to'. Occasionally he can pick up the BBC on his little portable radio and listens, bemusedly to dance music, with pleasure to the female announcer's voice. He reads books, he contemplates the ocean; in calms he lies on the side deck and gazes into the incredible blue depths below him. He takes plunge baths off the bowsprit and watches with resignation as the gooseneck barnacles grow. He is a happy man with a deep understanding of why he is out on the ocean.
As I said, I have read his books before, but I don't recall reading this one with so much pleasure. Maybe it's the contrast with my recent reads, maybe it's the contrast with the madness of today's world. Whatever, it makes me want to go and do likewise.
I wouldn't want to be sailing his heavy gaffer; I would hate to be without a self-steering gear, where he seemed quite content to spend 12 hours at the helm; I don't want to cope with cotton sails and manila ropes, but maybe I, too, have lost much in my demand for easier sailing. (And that's before we even talk about junk rig, although Mr Allcard does say he hated going on the foredeck.) I suppose we all choose our level of challenge, but I think it's attitude that I'm talking about. The attitude that accepts complete solitude; no communications and no sense of "I must go faster". I think he and I are in harmony here.
There is no publishers name in this book (apart from W W Norton on the title page), so I can only conclude that this is a Kobo initiative. If so, I hope they do more.
Kobo also have Ralph Stock's The Cruise of the Dreamship. It's very cheap, so may just be an e-book facsimile and a bit rough around the edges, but it is one of the most wonderful sailing books every written.
Edit:
Two things I meant to mention. The first was simply amplifying what I was saying earlier about Mr Allcard's wonderfully low expectations: he was very happy with a week's run of 522 miles, in fact so much so that he took Sunday off, something that he'd been intending to do at the outset, but because he had left late in the season, had felt the need to press on. So hard was he pressing on that he was quite content with a run of 472 miles the following week. 472 miles! Less than 3 knots! Quelle horreur! It just shows what an amazing difference self-steering gears have made to passage-making - and expectations. The vast majority of boats crossing oceans these days, would have been motoring every time the speed dropped below 4 knots, let alone 3.
The other thing is much, much sadder. Earlier in the book he passes a brown bottle bobbing along. Not only does he comment on it (not something one would be likely to log these days) and speculate on whence it came, but he remarks on how few foreign objects he sees at sea. And this from a low and often slow boat. Later, as he admires his surroundings, he writes: "It was pleasant to think that all the beuaty of the sea had been unspoiled by the scar of civilization, and that I was lucky enough to enjoy exactly the same sights as" Columbus. Not these days, alas. Especially in calm conditions, you can't look over the side without seeing something plastic floating in the water. You don't even come across those beautiful glass floats any more.
But I am one of the lucky ones: the first time I crossed an ocean was in 1975 and there was very little sign of plastic about then. While my memory lasts, I can enjoy that recollection.
However, I found Single-handed Passage was on offer and immediately bought it. What a joy to read after my recent books. Here is a man who is perfectly content to be sailing at 3 knots on his 34 foot yawl; he contemplates and 80-day passage with equanimity; he takes his mainsail down or heaves to at night so that he can sleep in peace; after two days of calm, culminating in a magnificent sunset, he writes "It was a fitting end to a delightful interlude." What a sense of peace emanates from these few words.
Edward Allcard is at sea just because he wants to be. He is not trying to prove anything or to compete with anyone - even himself. He just wishes to take his ship from England to New York by 'the Southern Route'. He looks at a couple of atlases, maybe a routing chart or two and sets off. He has no schedule, no-one he has arranged to meet, no flights to catch, no job or business to 'get back to'. Occasionally he can pick up the BBC on his little portable radio and listens, bemusedly to dance music, with pleasure to the female announcer's voice. He reads books, he contemplates the ocean; in calms he lies on the side deck and gazes into the incredible blue depths below him. He takes plunge baths off the bowsprit and watches with resignation as the gooseneck barnacles grow. He is a happy man with a deep understanding of why he is out on the ocean.
As I said, I have read his books before, but I don't recall reading this one with so much pleasure. Maybe it's the contrast with my recent reads, maybe it's the contrast with the madness of today's world. Whatever, it makes me want to go and do likewise.
I wouldn't want to be sailing his heavy gaffer; I would hate to be without a self-steering gear, where he seemed quite content to spend 12 hours at the helm; I don't want to cope with cotton sails and manila ropes, but maybe I, too, have lost much in my demand for easier sailing. (And that's before we even talk about junk rig, although Mr Allcard does say he hated going on the foredeck.) I suppose we all choose our level of challenge, but I think it's attitude that I'm talking about. The attitude that accepts complete solitude; no communications and no sense of "I must go faster". I think he and I are in harmony here.
There is no publishers name in this book (apart from W W Norton on the title page), so I can only conclude that this is a Kobo initiative. If so, I hope they do more.
Kobo also have Ralph Stock's The Cruise of the Dreamship. It's very cheap, so may just be an e-book facsimile and a bit rough around the edges, but it is one of the most wonderful sailing books every written.
Edit:
Two things I meant to mention. The first was simply amplifying what I was saying earlier about Mr Allcard's wonderfully low expectations: he was very happy with a week's run of 522 miles, in fact so much so that he took Sunday off, something that he'd been intending to do at the outset, but because he had left late in the season, had felt the need to press on. So hard was he pressing on that he was quite content with a run of 472 miles the following week. 472 miles! Less than 3 knots! Quelle horreur! It just shows what an amazing difference self-steering gears have made to passage-making - and expectations. The vast majority of boats crossing oceans these days, would have been motoring every time the speed dropped below 4 knots, let alone 3.
The other thing is much, much sadder. Earlier in the book he passes a brown bottle bobbing along. Not only does he comment on it (not something one would be likely to log these days) and speculate on whence it came, but he remarks on how few foreign objects he sees at sea. And this from a low and often slow boat. Later, as he admires his surroundings, he writes: "It was pleasant to think that all the beuaty of the sea had been unspoiled by the scar of civilization, and that I was lucky enough to enjoy exactly the same sights as" Columbus. Not these days, alas. Especially in calm conditions, you can't look over the side without seeing something plastic floating in the water. You don't even come across those beautiful glass floats any more.
But I am one of the lucky ones: the first time I crossed an ocean was in 1975 and there was very little sign of plastic about then. While my memory lasts, I can enjoy that recollection.
29 June 2017
Twenty-first century sailing books
You will have noticed that I'm an old fogey: behind the times, out of date, on a different planet, even. Maybe I always have been.
I ranted recently about Laura Dekka, but in fact she came right and finally stopped racing herself. Good for her. But why is this apparently so difficult? The book I'm reading at the moment is by a bloke I actually know, and he's a great bloke with lots of Right Ideas. However, I'm getting very irritated with him. He's always wanted to do a long passage on his own. Right? He knows he will probably never do it again. Right? He is aware that the time is fleeting and that he should savour every minute of it. Right? Wrong. At the moment, he is suffering temper tantrums and raving because there's not enough wind. Worse - it's too hot and he has too little fuel to motor! And his computer has died on him so he can't get his GRIB files!! Horror of horrors. He's in the Trade Wind zone: if he could get a forecast there would be nothing he could do about it, apart, perhaps, from having another breakdown.
And now he's worrying about his gas running out, so life has become, as he says, 'frugal' and he is measuring his water into the kettle to heat exactly what is required. You mean he didn't do that before? Surely every offshore sailor does this - if only to keep track of the water, let alone save fuel. Isn't being frugal the watchword of the ocean sailor?
It's a while since I crossed an ocean, but I have done so many times and it was always a 'rule' that we didn't use our engine at sea. Apart from anything else, the amount of fuel we carried was so little that the progress made would be negligible: just noise and heat for very little. But much more to the point, the object of the exercise was to sail from A to B. And, perhaps foolishly, I can think of no other reason to go on a sailing vessel from A to B unless you want to go sailing. So I am totally bewildered.
What is wrong with these people? You're on a sailing boat for heaven's sake, not a huge launch, not a ship. You don't have a schedule: that's the whole point of undertaking great, long ocean crossings. You are there to get from A to B under sail, using your wits, your skills and, above all, your patience, without which a sailor is nothing. What's wrong with a quiet day on the ocean, going nowhere? (Well of course the poor bugger has a bermudian rig, which is thrashing about whereas if he had a nice, junk rig, the sail would sit quietly, stopping the boat from rolling and ready and waiting for when the wind arrives.) It gives you time to clean the galley properly; to go through the fresh supplies carefully; to (in his case) transfer fuel from the jerricans that he carries lashed to the guard rails in lubberly fashion; to have a leisurely sponge bath; to cook something a bit special; to lean over the side and watch the myriad tiny creatures in the sea (and mourn the plastic that comes past every few seconds); to sit in the cockpit with a glass of wine or beer and admire the clouds reflected in the sea and to reflect yourself, on the near-impossibilty that you are on this small boat, all alone in the middle of a vast ocean.
But does our hero do any of this? No, he rants, he raves, he frets that he's not making any progress. Well, buddy, some of the progress you could make is inside your head and this is being completely lost to this puerile obsession with needing to get there. You have, quite simply, lost the plot. And the tragedy of all this is that when you finally arrive at your destination, when you realise that it's all over, you will look back and want to weep at the opportunities you wasted, the energy you squandered on anger and frustration, the incredibly rare time for peace and contemplation you were offered and threw away. Back in the futilely busy world of the twenty-first century, tweeting here and Facebooking there, complaining that you have no time you will regret for ever that when it was handed to you, dressed up in warmth, sunshine and quiet, you rejected it.
So sad. So different from the books I read as a young woman, where people from (supposedly) far less busy lives and times, could relish the gift of being still and going nowhere.
I ranted recently about Laura Dekka, but in fact she came right and finally stopped racing herself. Good for her. But why is this apparently so difficult? The book I'm reading at the moment is by a bloke I actually know, and he's a great bloke with lots of Right Ideas. However, I'm getting very irritated with him. He's always wanted to do a long passage on his own. Right? He knows he will probably never do it again. Right? He is aware that the time is fleeting and that he should savour every minute of it. Right? Wrong. At the moment, he is suffering temper tantrums and raving because there's not enough wind. Worse - it's too hot and he has too little fuel to motor! And his computer has died on him so he can't get his GRIB files!! Horror of horrors. He's in the Trade Wind zone: if he could get a forecast there would be nothing he could do about it, apart, perhaps, from having another breakdown.
And now he's worrying about his gas running out, so life has become, as he says, 'frugal' and he is measuring his water into the kettle to heat exactly what is required. You mean he didn't do that before? Surely every offshore sailor does this - if only to keep track of the water, let alone save fuel. Isn't being frugal the watchword of the ocean sailor?
It's a while since I crossed an ocean, but I have done so many times and it was always a 'rule' that we didn't use our engine at sea. Apart from anything else, the amount of fuel we carried was so little that the progress made would be negligible: just noise and heat for very little. But much more to the point, the object of the exercise was to sail from A to B. And, perhaps foolishly, I can think of no other reason to go on a sailing vessel from A to B unless you want to go sailing. So I am totally bewildered.
What is wrong with these people? You're on a sailing boat for heaven's sake, not a huge launch, not a ship. You don't have a schedule: that's the whole point of undertaking great, long ocean crossings. You are there to get from A to B under sail, using your wits, your skills and, above all, your patience, without which a sailor is nothing. What's wrong with a quiet day on the ocean, going nowhere? (Well of course the poor bugger has a bermudian rig, which is thrashing about whereas if he had a nice, junk rig, the sail would sit quietly, stopping the boat from rolling and ready and waiting for when the wind arrives.) It gives you time to clean the galley properly; to go through the fresh supplies carefully; to (in his case) transfer fuel from the jerricans that he carries lashed to the guard rails in lubberly fashion; to have a leisurely sponge bath; to cook something a bit special; to lean over the side and watch the myriad tiny creatures in the sea (and mourn the plastic that comes past every few seconds); to sit in the cockpit with a glass of wine or beer and admire the clouds reflected in the sea and to reflect yourself, on the near-impossibilty that you are on this small boat, all alone in the middle of a vast ocean.
But does our hero do any of this? No, he rants, he raves, he frets that he's not making any progress. Well, buddy, some of the progress you could make is inside your head and this is being completely lost to this puerile obsession with needing to get there. You have, quite simply, lost the plot. And the tragedy of all this is that when you finally arrive at your destination, when you realise that it's all over, you will look back and want to weep at the opportunities you wasted, the energy you squandered on anger and frustration, the incredibly rare time for peace and contemplation you were offered and threw away. Back in the futilely busy world of the twenty-first century, tweeting here and Facebooking there, complaining that you have no time you will regret for ever that when it was handed to you, dressed up in warmth, sunshine and quiet, you rejected it.
So sad. So different from the books I read as a young woman, where people from (supposedly) far less busy lives and times, could relish the gift of being still and going nowhere.
05 June 2017
Taking your time
I've been reading Laura Dekka's book, One Girl, One Dream. I put off reading it for ages, under the misapprehension that she was another victim of ambitious parents, being persuaded to break a record. It was only after I heard an interview with her on the radio, that I discovered she was someone very different.
In many ways, Laura is the person I wish I could have been. Bold, daring, self-confident and a fine sailor. On the other hand, she's not that practical, although I have to keep reminding myself that she's only 14: she is so mature that she comes across as an adult, and even assuming the self-editing that would have come along when she wrote the book at age 16 or 17, she would still be regarded by most as 'only a kid'.
However, she is, of course, very twenty-first century. The boat is put together by Other People and she seems frightened of even mending a sail. Again, she was only a girl and had hardly had a lifetime to learn skills, but her attitude seemed to be that one does things when one has to, but ideally, you bring in someone else to do the work. It would be interesting to see what she's like now. Does she repair her own sails and rigging? Can she replace wiring? Has she gone for a simpler boat, or does she still have all the bells and whistles that one can understand a young single-hander would want/be talked into.
I was amused by her feeling of relative poverty: she had, (as far as I can make out) two engines in the boat, AIS, chart plotter, radar, SSB, etc, etc, but in addition she had an inflatable catamaran to play with (what a sailor this girl is!), a small inflatable dinghy and a larger one, so that she could use an outboard motor! In addition, she regularly ate out and had money for a drink or an ice cream ashore, when the fancy took her, and joined other people in hiring cars and other touristy things ashore. As I said, very twenty first century. I'm getting old!
However, I found two rather sad things in the book. She had no time to cruise - well, she was trying to circumnavigate and while she was at it, she had decided to go for the record of youngest circumnavigator. And, of course, the lucky girl had her whole life ahead to go cruising, so I can understand that. But what is far more sad, is that no-one had ever taught her how to heave to and wait it out. Not only bad weather - she is far too feisty to do that anyway, to her bad weather is a challenge - but tiredness, going too fast, calms for that matter. She loves being at sea, loves the peace and quiet, but as soon as the boat speed drops - below about 4 knots it would appear - on goes the engine. She never felt that deep peace of being totally becalmed on a tranquil ocean and simply waiting for the wind. Nor did she ever appear to enjoy the incredible pleasure of barely trickling along with a hardly discernible chuckle at the bow of the boat. Worse, I really believe she didn't know how to heave to, because on occasion, she took the risk of going into a strange harbour at night, relying to a certain extent on not having any bad luck, because it would appear she didn't know how to stop her boat and wait.
The poor girl made all her landfalls by GPS (which, again, at 14/15 I can understand). Doesn't everyone? I guess so, but it's a shame to miss out on that incredible magic of feeling that you personally created the land that is appearing just where you hoped it would. All voyagers should do this at least once in their lives. But it's her relentless urge? conviction? lack of imagination? that made her turn on the motor when the wind dropped, that I feel sorriest for. The boat always had to be travelling quickly and if the wind dropped, well that's what the engine is for. She probably never even knew what she was missing, but the I deep regret on her behalf that she never got to feel the true peace of being alone with her boat on a completely calm, smooth and empty ocean - empty even of wind.
In many ways, Laura is the person I wish I could have been. Bold, daring, self-confident and a fine sailor. On the other hand, she's not that practical, although I have to keep reminding myself that she's only 14: she is so mature that she comes across as an adult, and even assuming the self-editing that would have come along when she wrote the book at age 16 or 17, she would still be regarded by most as 'only a kid'.
However, she is, of course, very twenty-first century. The boat is put together by Other People and she seems frightened of even mending a sail. Again, she was only a girl and had hardly had a lifetime to learn skills, but her attitude seemed to be that one does things when one has to, but ideally, you bring in someone else to do the work. It would be interesting to see what she's like now. Does she repair her own sails and rigging? Can she replace wiring? Has she gone for a simpler boat, or does she still have all the bells and whistles that one can understand a young single-hander would want/be talked into.
I was amused by her feeling of relative poverty: she had, (as far as I can make out) two engines in the boat, AIS, chart plotter, radar, SSB, etc, etc, but in addition she had an inflatable catamaran to play with (what a sailor this girl is!), a small inflatable dinghy and a larger one, so that she could use an outboard motor! In addition, she regularly ate out and had money for a drink or an ice cream ashore, when the fancy took her, and joined other people in hiring cars and other touristy things ashore. As I said, very twenty first century. I'm getting old!
However, I found two rather sad things in the book. She had no time to cruise - well, she was trying to circumnavigate and while she was at it, she had decided to go for the record of youngest circumnavigator. And, of course, the lucky girl had her whole life ahead to go cruising, so I can understand that. But what is far more sad, is that no-one had ever taught her how to heave to and wait it out. Not only bad weather - she is far too feisty to do that anyway, to her bad weather is a challenge - but tiredness, going too fast, calms for that matter. She loves being at sea, loves the peace and quiet, but as soon as the boat speed drops - below about 4 knots it would appear - on goes the engine. She never felt that deep peace of being totally becalmed on a tranquil ocean and simply waiting for the wind. Nor did she ever appear to enjoy the incredible pleasure of barely trickling along with a hardly discernible chuckle at the bow of the boat. Worse, I really believe she didn't know how to heave to, because on occasion, she took the risk of going into a strange harbour at night, relying to a certain extent on not having any bad luck, because it would appear she didn't know how to stop her boat and wait.
The poor girl made all her landfalls by GPS (which, again, at 14/15 I can understand). Doesn't everyone? I guess so, but it's a shame to miss out on that incredible magic of feeling that you personally created the land that is appearing just where you hoped it would. All voyagers should do this at least once in their lives. But it's her relentless urge? conviction? lack of imagination? that made her turn on the motor when the wind dropped, that I feel sorriest for. The boat always had to be travelling quickly and if the wind dropped, well that's what the engine is for. She probably never even knew what she was missing, but the I deep regret on her behalf that she never got to feel the true peace of being alone with her boat on a completely calm, smooth and empty ocean - empty even of wind.
13 June 2016
Are modern boats good value?
It’s
a long, long time since I posted. I must be getting mellow in
my old age.
What
got me thinking this morning, is reading (in the excellent Marine
Quarterly) about Eric and Susan Hiscock’s first
circumnavigation, in Wanderer
III.
The boat cost them £3,300,
which seems a risible sum these days. However, I recalled that
in 1952, boats were considered to be extremely expensive –
compared with a house for example, the average price of which was
£1,891,
as I discovered when I did a bit of homework.
In
today's prices, the hand-built, ‘one-off’ Wanderer III cost
£80,322 – quite a bit of money by anybody’s standards, to be
raised without a loan. However, the Hiscocks had no children
and, being the organised sort of people they were, had probably
planned all this for a long time and carefully saved for the voyage
around the world and the vessel that they needed to do it. They
knew they would be living on board for 3 years and in those days, not
only was it a problem taking money out of the country, it would also
have been a problem reprovisioning in a lot of places. Tinned
food would have been an expensive luxury in islands like the West
Indies and the Pacific Islands. Thus their decision to buy a larger
boat than their beloved Wanderer II.
The
Second World War was not long over: rationing still existed in Great
Britain and there was still a dearth of good materials available for
boat building. However, 60 years on, this great boat is still
going strong. True, Thies Matzen has replaced all the iron
floors, knees, etc with bronze, but he writes of her: “Of course,
she had to be well built, and she is. Wanderer
III
is traditionally planked and caulked and is well kept.” And
after nearly 300,000 sea miles, she is still crossing oceans – and
not
just in the Trade Winds: Thies and Kicki have spent many years
sailing south of 40°.
So
how much would a new 30ft boat cost today, I wondered. Well,
apparently if I were to buy a 31ft Benéteau, it would cost me
£83,000 ‘on the water’. I gather that one needs to spend
some £24,000 over and above the basic cost of the vessel to equip
her for ordinary weekend sailing. However, that probably
includes a heap of electronics that we could do without; on the other
hand, I suspect a lot more ‘real’ gear would be required to
circumnavigate, so let’s take the £83,000 to be what it would cost
– about half the price of an average house in the UK (I checked).
And we are talking about a cheap and cheerful production boat, here,
not something designed for crossing oceans. (I’m not sure if
any production boat builders would build a 31ft boat for crossing an
ocean, because most people appear to think that 40ft is the minimum
one could take offshore. I’m way out of touch with production
boats, so had to make do with my Beneteau as an example.)
However, in real terms, this somewhat indifferent cruising boat would
cost more than Wanderer III. It makes you think, doesn’t
it?
But
what makes me think even more, is the thought that for all our
technological improvements: will our Benéteau 31 still be tramping
over the world's oceans in 60 years, having been a floating home to
two couples for most of that time, and with only one major refit
along the way? Somehow, I very much doubt it. There are
still a large number of good, honest wooden boats alive and well and
going about their business, particularly in Great Britain, where the
climate is kind to carvel boats. However, the modern sailor’s
demands for space, comfort and large diesel engines will probably
spell their demise long before the little ships themselves are no
longer fit for duty. Every now and then you read about them or
see one up for sale: what a reflection they are on the honesty and
integrity of their builders. May they long be loved and
cherished.
04 November 2015
Second-hand learning
When I first started sailing, more years ago than I care to remember, my then-boyfriend got me into reading the old cruising yarns. In those halcyon days, libraries would hang on to book a lot longer than they do now (there were, to be sure, fewer books being published and I dare say their budgets were a lot lower), which meant that in spite of the book having been originally published before WWII, they were still available (and I'm not that old). Sadly, most of these books are long out of print and have not been republished as ebooks. (Should some wealthy philanthropist be reading this, may I suggest s/he gets hold of all the copyright for the books in the Mariners Library and republishes them as ebooks?)
However, I am digressing from the main reason for this posting. We all learn (or at least I profoundly hope we do) from our mistakes. Men, in particular, it would appear, have difficulties learning practical skills any other way, but it is such a wasteful way of acquiring knowledge. If we read these old cruising yarns, written in the days before any electronics (including a radio receiver) we can learn so much from these self-reliant and usually, self-taught mariners. Their mistakes were honest and honestly recounted. I remember, especially in my early days of sailing, some of these stories coming into my mind when a particular issue was creating a problem and requiring a solution. It was almost as though I were drawing on my own experience, and this received wisdom helped me sort out the matter.
I was talking to a friend the other day, about a mutual acquaintance who has just started sailing, well into his 60s. "Has he read such and such?" I asked. "What is he doing about charts? Did he get that cruising guide?" 'Oh", my friend replied, "he says he just has to learn from experience. Once he's made a mistake he'll be fine. That's the way I learn things, too."
But how sad and how dismissive of all that knowledge, acquired by others and made available to the rest of us, in order that we can avoid making stupid mistakes ourselves. To my mind, there is a deep-rooted arrogance here, too. An assumption that one's 'learning curve' is sufficiently steep that one will stay out of trouble due to one's razor-sharp reactions. But what happens if, as a result of 'learning from experience', he damages somebody else's boat? Or loses his own? Or injures himself or somebody else. Simply because he 'didn't realise that would happen'. But if he'd read around his subject, he would have known it might happen, because just that same event occurred in Francis B Cooke's In Tidal Waters.
Maybe this unwillingness to take on board the wisdom of others explains far more than the 'shake-your-head' antics of other sailors. Maybe it's why the human race keeps believing that the solution to a problem, is to take a lot of soldiers there and shoot people, in spite of the fact that history has shown over and over that this never produces a satisfactory outcome. Maybe Messrs Putin and Obama, Assad and Mugabe also like to learn from their own mistakes and by experience rather than learning from the wisdom of others.
However, I am digressing from the main reason for this posting. We all learn (or at least I profoundly hope we do) from our mistakes. Men, in particular, it would appear, have difficulties learning practical skills any other way, but it is such a wasteful way of acquiring knowledge. If we read these old cruising yarns, written in the days before any electronics (including a radio receiver) we can learn so much from these self-reliant and usually, self-taught mariners. Their mistakes were honest and honestly recounted. I remember, especially in my early days of sailing, some of these stories coming into my mind when a particular issue was creating a problem and requiring a solution. It was almost as though I were drawing on my own experience, and this received wisdom helped me sort out the matter.
I was talking to a friend the other day, about a mutual acquaintance who has just started sailing, well into his 60s. "Has he read such and such?" I asked. "What is he doing about charts? Did he get that cruising guide?" 'Oh", my friend replied, "he says he just has to learn from experience. Once he's made a mistake he'll be fine. That's the way I learn things, too."
But how sad and how dismissive of all that knowledge, acquired by others and made available to the rest of us, in order that we can avoid making stupid mistakes ourselves. To my mind, there is a deep-rooted arrogance here, too. An assumption that one's 'learning curve' is sufficiently steep that one will stay out of trouble due to one's razor-sharp reactions. But what happens if, as a result of 'learning from experience', he damages somebody else's boat? Or loses his own? Or injures himself or somebody else. Simply because he 'didn't realise that would happen'. But if he'd read around his subject, he would have known it might happen, because just that same event occurred in Francis B Cooke's In Tidal Waters.
Maybe this unwillingness to take on board the wisdom of others explains far more than the 'shake-your-head' antics of other sailors. Maybe it's why the human race keeps believing that the solution to a problem, is to take a lot of soldiers there and shoot people, in spite of the fact that history has shown over and over that this never produces a satisfactory outcome. Maybe Messrs Putin and Obama, Assad and Mugabe also like to learn from their own mistakes and by experience rather than learning from the wisdom of others.
17 December 2014
Chart plotter assisted strandings
We all know that I'm a curmudgeonly Luddite and if you despise this aspect of me, then I don't suppose you read this blog. As it happens, I rather like my little Garmin 76 GPS. It's as old as the century and still does all that I want it to. I find it very handy for working out how far it is from A to B, as I have all my usual routes fed into it and can extrapolate from them. I feel no need to have anything better - not in the least because my handheld GPS is completely waterproof and needs no aerial - and I most certainly do not want a chart plotter.
I have used one of these devices, so am not coming here completely from uninformed prejudice, but while I can see its use for sneaking up a narrow channel in the dark, or poor visibility (as long as you are confident of your waypoints), I am at a loss why anyone should prefer to use a tiny screen instead of a 43 inch by 29 inch chart. Where, pray, is the advantage? However, by far and away the worst thing about a chart plotter, is that as you scale down ie, (for those who get confused about the difference between large scale and small scale), show a larger area of (land and) water on the screen, most chart plotters eradicate 'extraneous' detail. Like buoys. Or reefs. Now the smallest scale chart will most definitely omit buoys and even anything but the most major lighthouses, but it will never omit a reef. So if you are racing across the Indian Ocean, as a Danish boat was recently, and happen to make a blunder that sends you heading directly for a reef a couple of hundred miles north, north east of Mauritius (as far as I could deduce from the radio), then your navigator, placing his fix on the chart, will say, 'Good heavens!', or words to that effect, 'there's a bally reef in the way', and advise the helmsmen to alter course accordingly.
However, if he's sitting looking at his chart plotter, cranked down to small scale, the reef won't be shown and there will be no warning of its existence until the boat blunders on to it.
Here were the excuses:
Of course, we can all make this mistake and many others; I am far from the perfect navigator. A kind guardian angel guided me through a cluster of rocks on one occasion when my pilotage was well out. They were well large enough to wreck my boat. I've come out of the hatch to see the beach but a few yards ahead. I've hit a navigation mark before now and run aground more times than I care to remember. But in each and every case, it has been my fault. Sure the charts have sometimes been misleading and the navigation mark wasn't where it was shown, but as I was doing the navigation, the responsibility was mine. GPS and chart plotters add to the information available to the navigator. It should be easier than ever to avoid shipwreck. No-one can blame the chart plotter for assisting the stranding - but it's increasingly common to hear it being used as an excuse.
I have used one of these devices, so am not coming here completely from uninformed prejudice, but while I can see its use for sneaking up a narrow channel in the dark, or poor visibility (as long as you are confident of your waypoints), I am at a loss why anyone should prefer to use a tiny screen instead of a 43 inch by 29 inch chart. Where, pray, is the advantage? However, by far and away the worst thing about a chart plotter, is that as you scale down ie, (for those who get confused about the difference between large scale and small scale), show a larger area of (land and) water on the screen, most chart plotters eradicate 'extraneous' detail. Like buoys. Or reefs. Now the smallest scale chart will most definitely omit buoys and even anything but the most major lighthouses, but it will never omit a reef. So if you are racing across the Indian Ocean, as a Danish boat was recently, and happen to make a blunder that sends you heading directly for a reef a couple of hundred miles north, north east of Mauritius (as far as I could deduce from the radio), then your navigator, placing his fix on the chart, will say, 'Good heavens!', or words to that effect, 'there's a bally reef in the way', and advise the helmsmen to alter course accordingly.
However, if he's sitting looking at his chart plotter, cranked down to small scale, the reef won't be shown and there will be no warning of its existence until the boat blunders on to it.
Here were the excuses:
- "The boat was going very quickly". Well, about three times as fast as the average cruising yacht, running in the Indian Ocean. About the speed at which a decent-sized ship would travel in times long before GPS. Considerably more slowly than a WWII bomber.
- "GPS isn't always that accurate". No? Well, since that nice Mr Clinton turned off the 'wobble factor', it has been sufficiently accurate for courier services to navigate by. I dare say it will show you when you are within cooee of a fair-sized reef. And if it isn't that accurate, why are they relying on it so heavily?
- 'The charts aren't always accurate". Well, true, but the French and the British were squabbling over that bit of water a couple of hundred years ago and had a pretty good idea of where all the bits of rock that might damage their ships were located. And if the charts aren't that accurate, is it not rather poor seamanship to go hurtling along in that manner?
Of course, we can all make this mistake and many others; I am far from the perfect navigator. A kind guardian angel guided me through a cluster of rocks on one occasion when my pilotage was well out. They were well large enough to wreck my boat. I've come out of the hatch to see the beach but a few yards ahead. I've hit a navigation mark before now and run aground more times than I care to remember. But in each and every case, it has been my fault. Sure the charts have sometimes been misleading and the navigation mark wasn't where it was shown, but as I was doing the navigation, the responsibility was mine. GPS and chart plotters add to the information available to the navigator. It should be easier than ever to avoid shipwreck. No-one can blame the chart plotter for assisting the stranding - but it's increasingly common to hear it being used as an excuse.
08 December 2014
A strange fetish
Dave Z's comment recalled me to myself. I have been musing muchly of late, but for reasons best know to my subconscious, have not inflicted such musings on an innocent world.
I've recently encountered one of the stranger boating fetishes on several occasions: this strange insistence that a cruising boat - pardon me, 'expedition vessel' - has to be built of steel. For strength, you know. Well, the only time I can think of the strength being of real value is when you run ashore on a solid object, from which you can easily access dry, and inhabited land. What's the use of having a steel boat that takes longer to crush in the ice than that built from another material? You still get crushed. Or being marooned high and dry and largely intact on a reef in the middle of nowhere? You're still marooned. Oh, of course, you turn on your 'device' and magic the maritime equivalent of the AA to come and take you home.
But sarcasm apart, and I admit I was being a teensy weensy bit sarky there, why this fetish for steel? Sure, I know that you can hit solid things a lot harder with a steel boat and get away with a few dents, but isn't the object of the exercise not to hit anything so excessively solid? How many people do you know who have lost their boats because they weren't built of steel? How many times have you hit a solid object with something other than your keel? I've been aground more times than I care to think about, but it's invariably the keel that has taken the major impact. Now, if you are sailing around in a delightful barge yacht, or traditional Chinese junk, you will ground on something less solid than steel (although the junk, with its watertight compartments, would take a bit of sinking), but on the other hand, with such shallow draught you are less likely to hit anything and if you do, you can step off the boat and set to on your repairs. And if you are sailing such a quirky boat you probably don't regard it as an 'expedition vessel' (or take yourself ridiculously seriously). Because, at the end of the day, isn't this what it's all about? The steel boat, built brutally strong and undoubtedly with rope reels on deck, fore and aft, is a statement. "Look at me: I'm about to do something really, really heroic."
But a 29ft, wooden yacht sailed the NW Passage last year. (Yes, I know that's not quite the same as doing it 20 or 30 years ago and they had plenty of support, but it's still not to be sniffed at.) The late-lamented Shrimpy was sailed (somewhat carelessly, it has to be said) on to a reef and was patched up in a couple of days.
40 or 50 years ago, nearly everyone was sailing wooden or (later) fibreglass boats. They sailed without radar, GPS, or any other of the aids that nowadays most people require to cross the Irish Sea. Their charts were limited in number and out of date. There were no cruising guides. If they had engines, they were unreliable: no forecasts, rarely tide tables. But they sailed safely and happily around the world and generally didn't end up stranded on reefs.
So I'll continue to say that my perfect boat will be built largely from wood, thank you very much. And I'll get rid of that extra draught, so that running aground is less of an issue. And have something light that bounces rather than being self-destructively heavy. And all the time that I'm not running aground (or being crushed in the ice) I will be sailing something built out of a material that is pleasant and easy to maintain or alter, and intrinsically beautiful.
I've recently encountered one of the stranger boating fetishes on several occasions: this strange insistence that a cruising boat - pardon me, 'expedition vessel' - has to be built of steel. For strength, you know. Well, the only time I can think of the strength being of real value is when you run ashore on a solid object, from which you can easily access dry, and inhabited land. What's the use of having a steel boat that takes longer to crush in the ice than that built from another material? You still get crushed. Or being marooned high and dry and largely intact on a reef in the middle of nowhere? You're still marooned. Oh, of course, you turn on your 'device' and magic the maritime equivalent of the AA to come and take you home.
But sarcasm apart, and I admit I was being a teensy weensy bit sarky there, why this fetish for steel? Sure, I know that you can hit solid things a lot harder with a steel boat and get away with a few dents, but isn't the object of the exercise not to hit anything so excessively solid? How many people do you know who have lost their boats because they weren't built of steel? How many times have you hit a solid object with something other than your keel? I've been aground more times than I care to think about, but it's invariably the keel that has taken the major impact. Now, if you are sailing around in a delightful barge yacht, or traditional Chinese junk, you will ground on something less solid than steel (although the junk, with its watertight compartments, would take a bit of sinking), but on the other hand, with such shallow draught you are less likely to hit anything and if you do, you can step off the boat and set to on your repairs. And if you are sailing such a quirky boat you probably don't regard it as an 'expedition vessel' (or take yourself ridiculously seriously). Because, at the end of the day, isn't this what it's all about? The steel boat, built brutally strong and undoubtedly with rope reels on deck, fore and aft, is a statement. "Look at me: I'm about to do something really, really heroic."
But a 29ft, wooden yacht sailed the NW Passage last year. (Yes, I know that's not quite the same as doing it 20 or 30 years ago and they had plenty of support, but it's still not to be sniffed at.) The late-lamented Shrimpy was sailed (somewhat carelessly, it has to be said) on to a reef and was patched up in a couple of days.
40 or 50 years ago, nearly everyone was sailing wooden or (later) fibreglass boats. They sailed without radar, GPS, or any other of the aids that nowadays most people require to cross the Irish Sea. Their charts were limited in number and out of date. There were no cruising guides. If they had engines, they were unreliable: no forecasts, rarely tide tables. But they sailed safely and happily around the world and generally didn't end up stranded on reefs.
So I'll continue to say that my perfect boat will be built largely from wood, thank you very much. And I'll get rid of that extra draught, so that running aground is less of an issue. And have something light that bounces rather than being self-destructively heavy. And all the time that I'm not running aground (or being crushed in the ice) I will be sailing something built out of a material that is pleasant and easy to maintain or alter, and intrinsically beautiful.
23 November 2013
The Devil in the Chartroom.
I'm sure I've gone on about EPIRBs, SSB and all the other acronyms that people load their boats down with, so that they can bleat for help when things go wrong, they get seasick, or it all just gets too wet and uncomfortable. You will gather I don't have a lot of time for them.
If you decide to go wandering over the sea in a small boat, it is ridiculous to think you have a right to be baled out when it all goes to custard. Fair enough when you're pottering around the coast within VHF (or mobile phone!) range: the boys and girls who come to pick you up will probably enjoy the challenge and it won't cost the taxpayer too much money. But to institute a full Search and Rescue in the middle of the ocean is really making yourself out to be far more important than you actually are. I'm sure the world will continue to turn and society (more or less) to function without your valuable input; just accept your fate and drown like a gentleman. All that money spent on picking you up out of the 'oggin could be much better spent on a lot more people who are actively contributing to society.
The latest in the line of devices to help you bale out, are the little trackers that normally-self-sufficient sailors are adding to their boats. The theory is that friends and relatives will be able to follow them across the ocean, so that everyone can feel 'in touch'. And, supposedly, said friends and rellies won't be worrying. Yeah right. This year, two of my friends fitted these devices and, in my opinion, the results have been from bad to disastrous.
One friend's device stopped transmitting for the simple and sufficient reason that there was no money left in the account. Those following his track, instantly went into panic mode and only the fact that they first debated the issue prevented them from contacting the Coastguard to 'see if they had heard anything'. How could they have? The self-sufficient friend in question does not carry an SSB. Needless to say, a few days later, he turned up safe and sound explaining why he'd 'gone off the air'. Now the damn transmitter is playing up again. He's had enough and it's soon to be on its way to the recycler. Friends and family will just have to go back to the good old days of hearing nothing of him when he chooses to traverse an ocean, and he can go back to enjoying his peace and quiet.
The incident with the second friend was far worse. These wretched transmitters allow you to send wee text messages and, of course, your location. So you can shout for help. Now my friend had had some truly horrendous weather, he was getting very tired; he'd had a few issues with water ingress and rig malfunction. All things he has dealt with in the past. He had a little device on board with a blinking light that said to him 'You don't need to carry on with this, you know.' They should be fitted with horns and a pitchfork, for they are surely little devils in disguise. If you can't give up, you won't, but the devil spake and he was tempted. So he called for help and, in due course, along came a ship and, when the wind had moderated to less than 45 knots (the conditions were appalling) he was picked up. He was very nearly crushed during the transfer from perfectly seaworthy yacht to the large ship and his brave little boat, that had looked after him loyally for tens of thousands of miles, survived being lifted up and repeatedly flung against the steel hull of the huge vessel alongside, and was last seen drifting disconsolately into the murk.
My friend has physical injuries that will take months to heal. As for the mental ones: 'I can't believe, now, that I felt things were so bad that I needed to abandon the boat.'
As Bill Tilman once said: 'we were distressed, but we weren't in distress'.
Without that little devil, my friend would probably be happily anchored near waving palm trees, the storms a fading memory and doing some minor repairs to his stout little ship. Now,because of that devil's insidious influence, he has lost his uninsured home, his joy and his freedom to roam the world.
If you decide to go wandering over the sea in a small boat, it is ridiculous to think you have a right to be baled out when it all goes to custard. Fair enough when you're pottering around the coast within VHF (or mobile phone!) range: the boys and girls who come to pick you up will probably enjoy the challenge and it won't cost the taxpayer too much money. But to institute a full Search and Rescue in the middle of the ocean is really making yourself out to be far more important than you actually are. I'm sure the world will continue to turn and society (more or less) to function without your valuable input; just accept your fate and drown like a gentleman. All that money spent on picking you up out of the 'oggin could be much better spent on a lot more people who are actively contributing to society.
The latest in the line of devices to help you bale out, are the little trackers that normally-self-sufficient sailors are adding to their boats. The theory is that friends and relatives will be able to follow them across the ocean, so that everyone can feel 'in touch'. And, supposedly, said friends and rellies won't be worrying. Yeah right. This year, two of my friends fitted these devices and, in my opinion, the results have been from bad to disastrous.
One friend's device stopped transmitting for the simple and sufficient reason that there was no money left in the account. Those following his track, instantly went into panic mode and only the fact that they first debated the issue prevented them from contacting the Coastguard to 'see if they had heard anything'. How could they have? The self-sufficient friend in question does not carry an SSB. Needless to say, a few days later, he turned up safe and sound explaining why he'd 'gone off the air'. Now the damn transmitter is playing up again. He's had enough and it's soon to be on its way to the recycler. Friends and family will just have to go back to the good old days of hearing nothing of him when he chooses to traverse an ocean, and he can go back to enjoying his peace and quiet.
The incident with the second friend was far worse. These wretched transmitters allow you to send wee text messages and, of course, your location. So you can shout for help. Now my friend had had some truly horrendous weather, he was getting very tired; he'd had a few issues with water ingress and rig malfunction. All things he has dealt with in the past. He had a little device on board with a blinking light that said to him 'You don't need to carry on with this, you know.' They should be fitted with horns and a pitchfork, for they are surely little devils in disguise. If you can't give up, you won't, but the devil spake and he was tempted. So he called for help and, in due course, along came a ship and, when the wind had moderated to less than 45 knots (the conditions were appalling) he was picked up. He was very nearly crushed during the transfer from perfectly seaworthy yacht to the large ship and his brave little boat, that had looked after him loyally for tens of thousands of miles, survived being lifted up and repeatedly flung against the steel hull of the huge vessel alongside, and was last seen drifting disconsolately into the murk.
My friend has physical injuries that will take months to heal. As for the mental ones: 'I can't believe, now, that I felt things were so bad that I needed to abandon the boat.'
As Bill Tilman once said: 'we were distressed, but we weren't in distress'.
Without that little devil, my friend would probably be happily anchored near waving palm trees, the storms a fading memory and doing some minor repairs to his stout little ship. Now,because of that devil's insidious influence, he has lost his uninsured home, his joy and his freedom to roam the world.
24 September 2013
Starry nights
Cruising is a life of contrasts. Many years ago a friend said to me that when you lived on a boat, the highs are higher and the lows are lower. It was true then: it's true now.
At present it's at a low. The wind is howling; rain is pelting down and I'm in a tidal anchorage with the ebb flowing strongly, dead against the wind. We are rocking and rolling and in the lulls, the poor wee boat swings round as the tide catches her and the next thing I know is that she's stern to the wind. I don't like wind: it's an over-rated commodity. And today there is far too much of it around. I have two consolations: we have good holding and sooner or later the wind will die down. One of the few things that I genuinely have taken on board over the years, is that gales finally blow themselves out But at times like this it seems much more an act of faith than a reality. I watch my barometer. It's an electronic one and it has dropped so far, so quickly that all but the most recent reading are jammed along the top of the scale. It's not a reassuring sight and I should dearly like it to start rising again. I suppose there's one more consolation: the tide will soon turn.
How different is this night from one last week when the wind had died away to a glassy calm, and the sky was filled with bright stars. I was in a different anchorage, sharing it with several other yachts, who were away for the weekend. Before turning in, I took a glass of wine to the after hatch to enjoy the evening: spring was in the air and in spite of the clear sky, it was surprisingly mild. Not by the wildest stretch of the imagination could I be described as an astronomer: I've always found it immensely difficult to recognise anything other than the major constellations, but for all that, I know the patterns that stars make, so I was somewhat startled by two bright, completely-unidentifiable planets. Both so high in the sky and neither in a place I would have expected. Puzzled, I looked at them for a few moments before it dawned on me that what I was looking at wasn't a planet; nor a star; nor even a satellite: I was looking at a couple of masthead lights, with LED bulbs and absolutely unmoving on the flat water of a calm night. In case you hadn't noticed, LED white lights are exactly the same colour as a bright star.
Now, for many years I have been bewildered as to the prevalence of masthead lights in anchorages. I am reliably informed that the people who switch them on regard them and describe them as 'anchor lights', but when and where did the ridiculous habit of placing them at the masthead come about? When I sail into an anchorage at night, I'm looking ahead of me, not star gazing. I want the anchor lamp to be at eye height, not 40 or 50 ft in the air. USAnians, indeed, believe that the masthead is the correct place for the light to be. Traditionally, an anchor light (also known as a riding light) was hung from the forestay and although the Rules (for Prevention of Collision at Sea) say that the anchor light should shine for a full 360 degrees, boats either at anchor or under way, rarely keep such a steady relation to one another that a light on the forestay would be hidden by the mast. Yes, a masthead light does comply with the literal meaning of the rules and yes, if you were wanting to be seen by ships rather than other small craft, a masthead light would probably be more efficacious, but shouldn't common sense and courtesy also apply? Surely, you are not switching on your light only in order to comply with the ColRegs? You are trying to make it easier for your fellow sailor, groping his way into the anchorage after dark and trying to thread his way among the boats already there. The fact that LED lights are so bright, only makes matters worse: it's astonishingly difficult to estimate how far off that light up in the sky is, particularly as you haven't a clue whether it's on a 20 ft mast or a 60 ft one.
If you feel you must have a masthead light, then please hang another one further down so that the approaching sailor can get an idea of where your boat actually is. You can go to any hardware store and buy a $5 lamp, with a tiny solar panel, a re-chargeable battery, one LED bulb and a light-sensitive switch that turns itself on when it goes dark. It's enough for anyone to see you long before they hit you and you might be happy to have it yourself, on the day when you return to your boat after dark when you only intended to be ashore for a couple of hours.
PS Make sure the one you buy uses an AA battery and replace it with a high quality, 200+ mAh one, for long nights and overcast days.
At present it's at a low. The wind is howling; rain is pelting down and I'm in a tidal anchorage with the ebb flowing strongly, dead against the wind. We are rocking and rolling and in the lulls, the poor wee boat swings round as the tide catches her and the next thing I know is that she's stern to the wind. I don't like wind: it's an over-rated commodity. And today there is far too much of it around. I have two consolations: we have good holding and sooner or later the wind will die down. One of the few things that I genuinely have taken on board over the years, is that gales finally blow themselves out But at times like this it seems much more an act of faith than a reality. I watch my barometer. It's an electronic one and it has dropped so far, so quickly that all but the most recent reading are jammed along the top of the scale. It's not a reassuring sight and I should dearly like it to start rising again. I suppose there's one more consolation: the tide will soon turn.
How different is this night from one last week when the wind had died away to a glassy calm, and the sky was filled with bright stars. I was in a different anchorage, sharing it with several other yachts, who were away for the weekend. Before turning in, I took a glass of wine to the after hatch to enjoy the evening: spring was in the air and in spite of the clear sky, it was surprisingly mild. Not by the wildest stretch of the imagination could I be described as an astronomer: I've always found it immensely difficult to recognise anything other than the major constellations, but for all that, I know the patterns that stars make, so I was somewhat startled by two bright, completely-unidentifiable planets. Both so high in the sky and neither in a place I would have expected. Puzzled, I looked at them for a few moments before it dawned on me that what I was looking at wasn't a planet; nor a star; nor even a satellite: I was looking at a couple of masthead lights, with LED bulbs and absolutely unmoving on the flat water of a calm night. In case you hadn't noticed, LED white lights are exactly the same colour as a bright star.
Now, for many years I have been bewildered as to the prevalence of masthead lights in anchorages. I am reliably informed that the people who switch them on regard them and describe them as 'anchor lights', but when and where did the ridiculous habit of placing them at the masthead come about? When I sail into an anchorage at night, I'm looking ahead of me, not star gazing. I want the anchor lamp to be at eye height, not 40 or 50 ft in the air. USAnians, indeed, believe that the masthead is the correct place for the light to be. Traditionally, an anchor light (also known as a riding light) was hung from the forestay and although the Rules (for Prevention of Collision at Sea) say that the anchor light should shine for a full 360 degrees, boats either at anchor or under way, rarely keep such a steady relation to one another that a light on the forestay would be hidden by the mast. Yes, a masthead light does comply with the literal meaning of the rules and yes, if you were wanting to be seen by ships rather than other small craft, a masthead light would probably be more efficacious, but shouldn't common sense and courtesy also apply? Surely, you are not switching on your light only in order to comply with the ColRegs? You are trying to make it easier for your fellow sailor, groping his way into the anchorage after dark and trying to thread his way among the boats already there. The fact that LED lights are so bright, only makes matters worse: it's astonishingly difficult to estimate how far off that light up in the sky is, particularly as you haven't a clue whether it's on a 20 ft mast or a 60 ft one.
If you feel you must have a masthead light, then please hang another one further down so that the approaching sailor can get an idea of where your boat actually is. You can go to any hardware store and buy a $5 lamp, with a tiny solar panel, a re-chargeable battery, one LED bulb and a light-sensitive switch that turns itself on when it goes dark. It's enough for anyone to see you long before they hit you and you might be happy to have it yourself, on the day when you return to your boat after dark when you only intended to be ashore for a couple of hours.
PS Make sure the one you buy uses an AA battery and replace it with a high quality, 200+ mAh one, for long nights and overcast days.
21 October 2012
The Gentle Art of Staying Afloat
I have recently found all Roger Taylor's books are now available as ebooks. I love ebooks - my bookshelves are already stocked to overflowing with old friends and until recently, when I came across a writer of books I just have to own, such as Roger Taylor, the only way I could indulge myself was by getting rid of one of my other treasured volumes. No More!! (www.thesimplesailor.com links you to paper books: I bought my ebooks from Kobo.)
Roger Taylor has my unalloyed admiration. I love the way he writes, the way he sails, the way he thinks. I appreciate his attitude of sailing with minimal outlay, but still being prepared to spend money on good equipment to do the job properly. Not economy for economy's sake, but thinking long and hard before parting with money and buying something that has caused even more resources to be wrested from Earth.
One of the more interesting aspects of Mingming is that she is unsinkable. Generally speaking, if you want your boat to continue floating once holed, you'd better have a multihull (and it never ceases to astonish me that people think in such a woolly way, that they will build these essentially-unsinkable craft out of a heavier-than-water material.) Even a lightly-ballasted wooden boat will have a tendency to go glug-glug-glug if she gets a hole in her and of course metal or GRP are only kept afloat by the volume of air within.
Now Mingming, being a mere 20ft long, does not have a huge amount of spare volume to be given over to flotation. On the other hand, Roger doesn't live on board and (it has to be said) does rather camp out. (Forgive me for saying this, Roger, in the extremely-unlikely event you will ever read this.) He also, obviously, has a considerably better mind than I do, and can go for long periods of time with only his thoughts and observations to occupy him, whereas I need my books at the very least. But as he is also prepared for all eventualities that he has envisaged (and his powers of concentration are impressive) and carries the wherewithal to deal with those, he still requires room for quite a lot of gear. Of course Mingming, is so simple that there aren't that many things to go wrong, and he doesn't need, for example, a comprehensive tool kit, spare filters, etc, etc for the engine.
What am I wittering on about, you ask? Well, I'm wondering how much foam I would need to fit in my boat to make her unsinkable. I get the impression that Mingming would stay buoyantly afloat, but that's maybe too much to ask for. Especially in a boat with 50% ballast ratio. But what if I do a bit of weeding of possessions - always good for the soul (but not my precious books!)? I could possibly fill in the space under the forward part of the V-berth and certainly under the two quarter berths. How about putting a floor in the lazarette and filling in under there? No room under the floorboards - that's the water tank. Most of the other lockers are full with food, clothes, tools, batteries, etc. I'm not, I regret, prepared to forgo my engine. This is a shame because it is a large beast and if I filled in all the area presently taken up by the engine and its ancillaries, I could add a lot of flotation. But I day sail, I'm constitutionally lazy and I like being able to motor 3 miles to an anchorage, rather than staying out half the night or sculling madly for hours. So unless I'm prepared to make many more compromises, I can't do a Mingming on my little junk.
But I wonder if even a little foam, a little additional buoyancy is anyway a good idea? Anything at all that helps us stay afloat? Because like the wholly-admirable Roger Taylor, I do not wish to be baled out of my own folly, at the expense of the already-beleaguered taxpayer, and at the risk of endangering other peoples' lives.
Roger Taylor has my unalloyed admiration. I love the way he writes, the way he sails, the way he thinks. I appreciate his attitude of sailing with minimal outlay, but still being prepared to spend money on good equipment to do the job properly. Not economy for economy's sake, but thinking long and hard before parting with money and buying something that has caused even more resources to be wrested from Earth.
One of the more interesting aspects of Mingming is that she is unsinkable. Generally speaking, if you want your boat to continue floating once holed, you'd better have a multihull (and it never ceases to astonish me that people think in such a woolly way, that they will build these essentially-unsinkable craft out of a heavier-than-water material.) Even a lightly-ballasted wooden boat will have a tendency to go glug-glug-glug if she gets a hole in her and of course metal or GRP are only kept afloat by the volume of air within.
Now Mingming, being a mere 20ft long, does not have a huge amount of spare volume to be given over to flotation. On the other hand, Roger doesn't live on board and (it has to be said) does rather camp out. (Forgive me for saying this, Roger, in the extremely-unlikely event you will ever read this.) He also, obviously, has a considerably better mind than I do, and can go for long periods of time with only his thoughts and observations to occupy him, whereas I need my books at the very least. But as he is also prepared for all eventualities that he has envisaged (and his powers of concentration are impressive) and carries the wherewithal to deal with those, he still requires room for quite a lot of gear. Of course Mingming, is so simple that there aren't that many things to go wrong, and he doesn't need, for example, a comprehensive tool kit, spare filters, etc, etc for the engine.
What am I wittering on about, you ask? Well, I'm wondering how much foam I would need to fit in my boat to make her unsinkable. I get the impression that Mingming would stay buoyantly afloat, but that's maybe too much to ask for. Especially in a boat with 50% ballast ratio. But what if I do a bit of weeding of possessions - always good for the soul (but not my precious books!)? I could possibly fill in the space under the forward part of the V-berth and certainly under the two quarter berths. How about putting a floor in the lazarette and filling in under there? No room under the floorboards - that's the water tank. Most of the other lockers are full with food, clothes, tools, batteries, etc. I'm not, I regret, prepared to forgo my engine. This is a shame because it is a large beast and if I filled in all the area presently taken up by the engine and its ancillaries, I could add a lot of flotation. But I day sail, I'm constitutionally lazy and I like being able to motor 3 miles to an anchorage, rather than staying out half the night or sculling madly for hours. So unless I'm prepared to make many more compromises, I can't do a Mingming on my little junk.
But I wonder if even a little foam, a little additional buoyancy is anyway a good idea? Anything at all that helps us stay afloat? Because like the wholly-admirable Roger Taylor, I do not wish to be baled out of my own folly, at the expense of the already-beleaguered taxpayer, and at the risk of endangering other peoples' lives.
14 October 2012
Back again!
Hah! I guess you thought - hoped even - that I'd gone away for good. No such luck. Life had dragged me by the scruff of the neck into a busyness that seemed to provide no time for musings of any sort, certainly subversive ones. I was living a life full of Things To Do, hectic schedules - even airline flights, which I hate with a passion. Unless in a small, propeller driven aircraft, where I can have a window seat and admire the beautiful land unfolding beneath me. But long distance 'plane flights are terrible things, made worse, for me, but the continuing knowledge of the damage I'm doing to this wonderful earth, by such greedy consumption.
But finally I am back on my boat and in peace. I cannot begin to describe the pleasure I have in my little ship, in her grace and simplicity and the near-luxury of my little home. Sometimes I can hardly wait to go to bed because my berth in the forepeak is so comfortable, and in the winter, with the down quilt wrapped around me, it is inconceivably snug. And oh! the luxury of sleeping alone - of having a bed entirely to myself, with no-one else to think about if I want to stretch out, or to turn over, or to cough, or giggle at some silly thought that crosses what I laughingly call my mind.
On a cold, clear night, I lie there with the hatch partly open, gazing at the stars. That hatch is both a necessity and a gross extravagance. Its predecessor, the original fibreglass one, was, of course, completely opaque, which was bad enough: it also leaked and was impossible properly to dog, which was intolerable. A great friend went and sold his soul to the manufacturer on my behalf, and obtained, at cost price, an enormous hatch, large enough for a super-yacht. It was still heart-stoppingly expensive, but the original had a complicated moulding that would have been very difficult to incorporate in the same-sized alloy hatch. With this mega hatch, however, I could build a frame outside the old one and simply drop the new hatch on top. It is such bliss. Several people have been puzzled that I should want a hatch that lets in the first light of day, but to me it is a necessity to be able to follow the phases of the moon, as I lie awake at night. A lifelong insomniac - such things are important.
And we move aft a little to my superb galley. Has any 26ft boat ever been blessed with such a fine place in which to cook? I love to cook. I love, particularly, to cook for myself: carefully-planned and light meals, for enjoyment rather than repletion. Sometimes I will make the starter, eat it slowly with a glass of wine, and then prepare the main course from scratch, sipping away as I cook. It may be an hour from one course to the next, and I enjoy every second of it. I sit down at my varnished, mahogany table, laid with attractive cutlery, hand-made pottery and Waterford Crystal glasses, bought second-hand for a pittance. As I savour my food, I can gaze out of the window at the passing scene.
The table is something I made myself, to replace the rather ratty plywood one that wobbled around on an ugly pedestal. Originally it had - I suppose - had the facility to rise up and down like a Pantomime Demon, in order to accommodate a loving couple in connubial bliss. A small, loving couple, I would have to say, as my whole boat is designed around hobbits. Fine for me at 5ft 1in and weighing about a hundredweight, but a little constrained for more normal-sized people. Yes, this bunk is 6ft long - once the cushions are removed fore and aft and assuming your tape measure hook is not particularly thick. I have dozed on the outboard half at sea and not found it any too long. I never did try the original table top, because the bed thus formed would have been too narrow for comfort. At least in my V-berth (and only a couple ardently in lust would call it a double) I can't fall out of bed! A friend thought that my replacement table (constructed in traditional manner, of one-inch wood, with fold-down leaves) should be made in the same manner as the old one 'in case', but I reckon two people on my boat is getting perilously close to a crowd and cannot imagine sharing with a couple. Who want to sleep together. So I did it my way. Which is why I bought my own boat in the first place.
The other change from the original is that my new table has no fiddles. I love to write - as you may have guessed - and the fiddles made this awkward. Occasionally I like to write by hand, with a fountain pen, and the fiddles made this almost impossible. I could understand fitting them for and aft, but athwartships? So my new table has no fiddle. Anyway, this is the 21st century, the era of sticky mats. There is no need for such a thing 90% of the time. In the galley, yes. On the bookshelves equally so, but the saloon table? But if ever I get the guts to go offshore, I shall fit removable ones fore and aft.
So here I sit in my comfortable little boat, looking up occasionally to admire the scenery, able in one short stop to reach the coffee pot and brew up. One day I shall sing the praises of my cockpit, but at present it is too cool to enjoy it.
Why, oh why, would anyone want more?
But finally I am back on my boat and in peace. I cannot begin to describe the pleasure I have in my little ship, in her grace and simplicity and the near-luxury of my little home. Sometimes I can hardly wait to go to bed because my berth in the forepeak is so comfortable, and in the winter, with the down quilt wrapped around me, it is inconceivably snug. And oh! the luxury of sleeping alone - of having a bed entirely to myself, with no-one else to think about if I want to stretch out, or to turn over, or to cough, or giggle at some silly thought that crosses what I laughingly call my mind.
On a cold, clear night, I lie there with the hatch partly open, gazing at the stars. That hatch is both a necessity and a gross extravagance. Its predecessor, the original fibreglass one, was, of course, completely opaque, which was bad enough: it also leaked and was impossible properly to dog, which was intolerable. A great friend went and sold his soul to the manufacturer on my behalf, and obtained, at cost price, an enormous hatch, large enough for a super-yacht. It was still heart-stoppingly expensive, but the original had a complicated moulding that would have been very difficult to incorporate in the same-sized alloy hatch. With this mega hatch, however, I could build a frame outside the old one and simply drop the new hatch on top. It is such bliss. Several people have been puzzled that I should want a hatch that lets in the first light of day, but to me it is a necessity to be able to follow the phases of the moon, as I lie awake at night. A lifelong insomniac - such things are important.
And we move aft a little to my superb galley. Has any 26ft boat ever been blessed with such a fine place in which to cook? I love to cook. I love, particularly, to cook for myself: carefully-planned and light meals, for enjoyment rather than repletion. Sometimes I will make the starter, eat it slowly with a glass of wine, and then prepare the main course from scratch, sipping away as I cook. It may be an hour from one course to the next, and I enjoy every second of it. I sit down at my varnished, mahogany table, laid with attractive cutlery, hand-made pottery and Waterford Crystal glasses, bought second-hand for a pittance. As I savour my food, I can gaze out of the window at the passing scene.
The table is something I made myself, to replace the rather ratty plywood one that wobbled around on an ugly pedestal. Originally it had - I suppose - had the facility to rise up and down like a Pantomime Demon, in order to accommodate a loving couple in connubial bliss. A small, loving couple, I would have to say, as my whole boat is designed around hobbits. Fine for me at 5ft 1in and weighing about a hundredweight, but a little constrained for more normal-sized people. Yes, this bunk is 6ft long - once the cushions are removed fore and aft and assuming your tape measure hook is not particularly thick. I have dozed on the outboard half at sea and not found it any too long. I never did try the original table top, because the bed thus formed would have been too narrow for comfort. At least in my V-berth (and only a couple ardently in lust would call it a double) I can't fall out of bed! A friend thought that my replacement table (constructed in traditional manner, of one-inch wood, with fold-down leaves) should be made in the same manner as the old one 'in case', but I reckon two people on my boat is getting perilously close to a crowd and cannot imagine sharing with a couple. Who want to sleep together. So I did it my way. Which is why I bought my own boat in the first place.
The other change from the original is that my new table has no fiddles. I love to write - as you may have guessed - and the fiddles made this awkward. Occasionally I like to write by hand, with a fountain pen, and the fiddles made this almost impossible. I could understand fitting them for and aft, but athwartships? So my new table has no fiddle. Anyway, this is the 21st century, the era of sticky mats. There is no need for such a thing 90% of the time. In the galley, yes. On the bookshelves equally so, but the saloon table? But if ever I get the guts to go offshore, I shall fit removable ones fore and aft.
So here I sit in my comfortable little boat, looking up occasionally to admire the scenery, able in one short stop to reach the coffee pot and brew up. One day I shall sing the praises of my cockpit, but at present it is too cool to enjoy it.
Why, oh why, would anyone want more?
25 February 2012
Sailors and Grog
Sailors and grog have a long and distinguished relationship. I am a died-in-the-wool sailor as far as this goes. I like my grog and I see no reason to go teetotal, just because I am sitting comfortably in my saloon, with the boat underway, rather than at anchor.
On a recent passage of several days, I felt quite tense at the initial stages. I had a tidal gate to negotiate, a tricky headland to round and what appeared to be in un-forecast increase in the wind. I felt a little daunted, it was about 1800 hrs, around the time I usually have a pre-prandial glass of wine. So I poured a pre-prandial glass of wine and even with the first sip felt a whole lot better. It wasn't the alcohol so much as the normality of the situation that made everything seem less fraught. I then cooked myself a really good meal, taking my usual care in its preparation, and drank another couple of glasses of wine while I cooked and ate.
To be honest, I hadn't even considered whether or not I would drink on passage - I assumed that I would - but it did cross my mind, as I poured out another glass, that some would consider me irresponsible. It is a concept that utterly bewilders me. Here I am, pottering along at about 5 miles an hour, drinking moderately a gift of the gods that adds enormously to my pleasure in life. And yet many of those who would be sucking their teeth and tut-tutting at the throught of drinking alcohol underway, wouldn't hesitate to down a bottle of beer or a glass of wine half an hour before getting into a car and hurtling down the road at a closing speed with another vehicle of some 120 mph. And passing it within just a few feet. That person might also be driving very much within the legal limits for blood alcohol and most people would consider these drivers to be responsible citizens.
I rarely drive, and when I do I am immensely conscious of the speed and velocity of the vehicle. I am even more aware that a single glass of wine may slightly slow down my reactions. On the water, miles from land, boat or anything else, there is no real reason why I shouldn't drink myself into oblivion, if I choose to do so. When I'm coastal sailing, even half a bottle of wine is unlikely to impair my judgement so badly that I can't manoevre round a buoy or bring my boat to anchor within 20 yards of another vessel. And yet so many people say, with nauseating piousness - "Oh, I sail a dry boat. I completely refuse to have alcohol on board any boat I sail." Well, bully for them. But don't preach to me, mate: what was good enough for Admiral Cochrane is good enough for Missee Lee.
On a recent passage of several days, I felt quite tense at the initial stages. I had a tidal gate to negotiate, a tricky headland to round and what appeared to be in un-forecast increase in the wind. I felt a little daunted, it was about 1800 hrs, around the time I usually have a pre-prandial glass of wine. So I poured a pre-prandial glass of wine and even with the first sip felt a whole lot better. It wasn't the alcohol so much as the normality of the situation that made everything seem less fraught. I then cooked myself a really good meal, taking my usual care in its preparation, and drank another couple of glasses of wine while I cooked and ate.
To be honest, I hadn't even considered whether or not I would drink on passage - I assumed that I would - but it did cross my mind, as I poured out another glass, that some would consider me irresponsible. It is a concept that utterly bewilders me. Here I am, pottering along at about 5 miles an hour, drinking moderately a gift of the gods that adds enormously to my pleasure in life. And yet many of those who would be sucking their teeth and tut-tutting at the throught of drinking alcohol underway, wouldn't hesitate to down a bottle of beer or a glass of wine half an hour before getting into a car and hurtling down the road at a closing speed with another vehicle of some 120 mph. And passing it within just a few feet. That person might also be driving very much within the legal limits for blood alcohol and most people would consider these drivers to be responsible citizens.
I rarely drive, and when I do I am immensely conscious of the speed and velocity of the vehicle. I am even more aware that a single glass of wine may slightly slow down my reactions. On the water, miles from land, boat or anything else, there is no real reason why I shouldn't drink myself into oblivion, if I choose to do so. When I'm coastal sailing, even half a bottle of wine is unlikely to impair my judgement so badly that I can't manoevre round a buoy or bring my boat to anchor within 20 yards of another vessel. And yet so many people say, with nauseating piousness - "Oh, I sail a dry boat. I completely refuse to have alcohol on board any boat I sail." Well, bully for them. But don't preach to me, mate: what was good enough for Admiral Cochrane is good enough for Missee Lee.
19 January 2012
Small Is Beautiful
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I love my little boat. She is not what I would have chosen, but I have put a lot into her and she has rewarded my efforts and now I think that maybe she chose me. But one of the things I like most about her is her size – or lack of it.
I love my little boat. She is not what I would have chosen, but I have put a lot into her and she has rewarded my efforts and now I think that maybe she chose me. But one of the things I like most about her is her size – or lack of it.
I
remember, in my very early twenties, standing in the bedroom of the
house I was then living in and thinking ‘all this space. For a
bed?’ It seemed daft then (it seems daft now) and my next thought
was, ‘it’s so much better living on a boat.’ Within a few
months I was living aboard once more and in the intervening, heaven
know how many years, I have spent less than 12 months between walls.
I live
in a space of less than 11 sq metres – 120 sq ft – and that is at
shoulder height. My feet, legs and hips manage in less. I have a
wonderfully comfortable and cosy bed. It has its own space
sacrosanct to lying and sleeping. It does not have a room
entirely to itself, but there is plenty of space under it to stow gear. And in summer, when I don’t want to be cosy,
there is a large hatch over it that lets in the fresh air. It also
lets in the light, to encourage me to get up and see what the new day
has to bring. At the forward end is a clothes locker and on either
side are book shelves, with my cherished friends therein.
There
is a small toilet, so that I have a certain amount of convenience and
outboard and above is a locker that contains my sewing machine and
beer barrel. Opposite is a cabinet with storage for toiletries;
beneath is a locker for sewing stuff, toilet rolls, laundry pegs, etc
and under that is a shoe locker. Moving aft we come to the saloon
and galley. I cook in my living room; or live in my kitchen,
depending on how you look at it. The settee and table are
comfortable and can fit 4 with ease, 5 in comfort (as long as no-one
is fat), and 6 for a party. I have fridge (hmm – this came with
the boat, can’t be removed without dismantling the galley, but is a
bit of a mixed blessing to say the least), sink and cooker, and
plenty of storage. Good lockers protect my locally-made crockery and
cup hooks support the fine china mugs that I prefer for my tea. I
have plenty of room for pressure cooker, pans, storage containers,
etc. The saloon provides lockers for longer term food supplies.
If the
party is getting on the large side, each quarter berth has a seat at
its head and we can comfortably seat another couple of people there.
The grog locker is here, too and my little heater.
Many
houses have a deck or verandah, where one can enjoy lunch in the
sunshine, or unwind with a sundowner at the end of the day. My
cockpit provides the same amenity. Two people can sprawl luxuriously
in the sun. Four can sit at ease. It’s a bit of a squeeze for
eight. Around and abaft this space are more lockers for things like
paint and rope.
Really,
what more could anybody want? And yet I manage to pack all this
comfort and convenience into a boat that is probably shorter than a
lot of living rooms. And this wonderful home cost me less than many
people would spend on a motor car.
All
this is rather wonderful when I am tied up alongside a wharf, but
what is even better is that after a day, a week, a month or maybe
even a year, I can slip the warps and head off for somewhere quite
different. Perhaps even somewhere I’ve never been before. But
while I'm getting there, I have my lovely home with me. Then, I drop
my anchor and there I am – in a completely new place that is still
home. And this little, compact home is so easy to handle, to paint,
to find room for, to manage. Why would I want anything bigger?
Small
is definitely beautiful.
14 January 2012
Is it really so difficult?
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I've been looking at the
LowCostVoyaging group on Yahoo. I can’t say that I’d recommend
it: like so many USAnian based sites, it’s been pretty much taken
over by the paranoid and reactionary. I can’t imagine most of them
happily voyaging outside USA and its satellites.
They’d have to deal with people who don’t necessarily agree with
them, who are competent where they are not; who don’t measure
wealth in dollar terms. I feel sorry for most of them – they just
do not have the empathy and imagination to look beyond what they've been told to believe.
There are two or three posters who are
obviously off cruising, or have been, and several who have spent a lot
of times in boats, but you just know only in USA. But what I
find really rather sad, is how terribly difficult it seems to be for
the would-be voyagers on the site, to cast off and go. They agonise over details: which cell
phone server to use; how can they feed themselves beyond the
supermarket; the ultimately best, safest and most rewarding
(financially, of course) investment; health care insurance; etc, etc.
All the while they ponder, worry and debate, their life is trickling
away and Bureaucracy is insidiously making life more and more
difficult for cruising sailors. They rail against socialism, but don’t
have what it takes to go and spend time in a socialist country. They
write tirades about Big Government, but don’t realise they have
fallen for the Great Con: that you are a better and happier person,
working 2000 hours a year, taking 2 weeks off for holidays and
enjoying your Saturday night potluck in the church hall.
Private Enterprise is all and Capitalism second only to God; and yet this wonderful system has them
so hog-tied that they can’t even cast off for a few months of
freedom – let alone for the rest of their lives.
Live free or die? Sorry guys, you
don’t know what freedom is.
05 January 2012
Life is full of little mysteries, this I know, but one that keeps me permanently bemused is: why don't people with sailing boats, sail them?
Now I can quite understand why you might not want to beat to windward for 4 miles when you can motor there more quickly and comfortably. On the other hand, if you feel like that - why go to all the expense of a high-tech Bermudian rig? Why not go for an honest motor sailer and put a junk rig on it that will be much better for the motoring bit as well as being perfect when you want to run downwind and save fuel.
I can understand human impatience which makes people reach for the starter button when the boat starts drifting sideways and doing the 'painted ship upon a painted sea bit', although I personally rather enjoy it. But I am quite happy to make use of my engine to get in to an anchorage rather than sit for hours staring at it.
But what I truly cannot understand is those people who motor, with a nice F3 or 4 on the beam. I've been yachting around over the Christmas period, and seen an amazing amount of this happening. I mean, these people have roller furling jibs, for heaven's sake. How much work is it to pull it out? And why would you put up with the noise of an engine when you could be going just as quickly and a lot more quietly. And that's before I get on my soap box and start ranting on about the profligate waste of finite resources and the sheer immorality of using diesel when the wind is free and infinite - and fair.
So why do they have sailing boats? And why do these same people mock my junk rig and claim that it can't possibly sail to windward anywhere near as well as their boat? How would they know?
One of life's little mysteries.
Now I can quite understand why you might not want to beat to windward for 4 miles when you can motor there more quickly and comfortably. On the other hand, if you feel like that - why go to all the expense of a high-tech Bermudian rig? Why not go for an honest motor sailer and put a junk rig on it that will be much better for the motoring bit as well as being perfect when you want to run downwind and save fuel.
I can understand human impatience which makes people reach for the starter button when the boat starts drifting sideways and doing the 'painted ship upon a painted sea bit', although I personally rather enjoy it. But I am quite happy to make use of my engine to get in to an anchorage rather than sit for hours staring at it.
But what I truly cannot understand is those people who motor, with a nice F3 or 4 on the beam. I've been yachting around over the Christmas period, and seen an amazing amount of this happening. I mean, these people have roller furling jibs, for heaven's sake. How much work is it to pull it out? And why would you put up with the noise of an engine when you could be going just as quickly and a lot more quietly. And that's before I get on my soap box and start ranting on about the profligate waste of finite resources and the sheer immorality of using diesel when the wind is free and infinite - and fair.
So why do they have sailing boats? And why do these same people mock my junk rig and claim that it can't possibly sail to windward anywhere near as well as their boat? How would they know?
One of life's little mysteries.
05 December 2011
I was recently talking to an acquaintance and saying that I had decided to invest some money in a 'Netbook'. Although my present laptop is functioning OK - touch wood! - it is very greedy on electricity. I hate running the engine unnecessarily and my (cracked) solar panel isn't too efficient. But someone told me he could get a good deal on a computer with a solid-state hard drive and a six-cell battery, both of which, he assured me, would mean that I could run the machine on its own battery for about 6 hours at a time. And the netbook is small and light - much easier to take ashore to an Internet Cafe.
So I was saying all this, and how great it would be to reduce my electricity consumption and be able to write emails and my blog and so on.
'Yes,' quoth he, 'it should be great. And you know, you can get all sorts of navigation software to run on Netbooks.'
Please engage brain before speaking, I thought. But smiled and said, 'I don't think so,' and left it at that.
So I was saying all this, and how great it would be to reduce my electricity consumption and be able to write emails and my blog and so on.
'Yes,' quoth he, 'it should be great. And you know, you can get all sorts of navigation software to run on Netbooks.'
Please engage brain before speaking, I thought. But smiled and said, 'I don't think so,' and left it at that.
12 November 2011
Light headwinds. Drizzle turning to real rain. Twelve miles to the next anchorage; I have a rendezvous I'd like to keep. I could motor. I decide to sail. The other yachties obviously think I'm nuts. But my rig is easy to handle and efficient. I have an excellent self-steering gear and I recently bought a new waterproof jacket, so I'll stay dry when I'm on deck.
I don't have to be on deck for long, of course. Just get the sail set, adjust the steering gear and kill the engine that got me out of the anchorage. I can lay my course! I'm making 3 knots! What's not to like?
A little while later I make my favourite rainy-day sailing drink. So it's 9 00 am, but who's going to know? I half fill a mug with heavy red wine. I grate in nutmeg and sprinkle cinnamon; meanwhile the kettle burbles on the stove. I pour water from it into the mug. Steam rises. Bliss.
Later the rain gets heavier and the wind lighter. I end up motoring. But I tried. And really, really enjoyed my little boat doing her best for me.
I don't have to be on deck for long, of course. Just get the sail set, adjust the steering gear and kill the engine that got me out of the anchorage. I can lay my course! I'm making 3 knots! What's not to like?
A little while later I make my favourite rainy-day sailing drink. So it's 9 00 am, but who's going to know? I half fill a mug with heavy red wine. I grate in nutmeg and sprinkle cinnamon; meanwhile the kettle burbles on the stove. I pour water from it into the mug. Steam rises. Bliss.
Later the rain gets heavier and the wind lighter. I end up motoring. But I tried. And really, really enjoyed my little boat doing her best for me.
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